Both tile and melamine share the same basic problem for a decorator: a hard, glassy factory finish that ordinary paint has nothing to grip. Done properly the result can be genuinely durable; done as a quick roller job over a wipe-down, it chips within weeks.
Degreasing removes surface contamination but does nothing for the glaze itself. A thorough abrasion across every tile face, including a careful pass into the grout lines, gives a specialist tile primer something to actually bond to before the topcoat goes on.
Cabinet doors in melamine or laminate have a resin-based facing that resists adhesion in much the same way as glazed tile, but the thinner, more flexible substrate underneath makes edges and corners more prone to chipping once painted, so those areas get reinforced attention during preparation.
A properly prepared and coated tile or melamine surface holds up well to normal domestic use, but neither becomes as tough as a genuinely retiled or replaced surface. We are upfront that this is a cost-effective refresh, not a permanent substitute for replacement.
A flexible specialist coating tolerates minor movement better than standard emulsion, though significant grout movement is a tiling issue we would flag separately.
Yes, with a system rated for kitchen conditions, though we still recommend keeping direct contact with very hot pans or steam to a minimum near painted edges.
It varies with how the kitchen or bathroom is used day to day. We can give a realistic view once we see the specific surface and its exposure.
Send photos of the splashback or cabinets and we will confirm whether painting is a sensible option here.
Tile and melamine can be painted successfully with proper abrasion and priming, but it is a refresh, not a replacement.
Speak to a Hampshire commercial decorating contractor that turns up, communicates clearly and delivers a finish that lasts.
