Getting new paint to stick to old gloss woodwork
Decades of oil gloss leaves a hard, slick, low-energy surface. Modern water-based trim paints are excellent, but they need mechanical key and the right primer to grip it.
01Key the surface properly
The whole surface is abraded until the sheen is gone — not just the obvious flat faces. Mouldings, edges and the back edges of doors are where flaking usually starts because they were skipped.
02Degrease after sanding
Sanding pushes contamination around rather than removing it. A degreaser wipe after abrading, before priming, removes hand grease and polish residue that would otherwise defeat the primer.
03Use an adhesion primer
A dedicated adhesion or bonding primer bridges the gap between the old solvent film and the new water-based system. Skipping it is the single most common cause of trim paint peeling off in strips.
04Watch for old lead paint
Pre-1980s coatings may contain lead. We avoid dry-sanding suspect layers and use safe methods rather than creating dust in an occupied home.
Common questions
Can I paint water-based over oil-based gloss?
Yes, provided the surface is fully abraded, degreased and treated with an adhesion primer.
Why did my new trim paint peel off in sheets?
Almost always insufficient key or a missing bonding primer — the paint film formed but never bonded.
Do I need to strip the old gloss?
Not usually. Stripping is reserved for heavily built-up mouldings where detail has been lost.
Is old paint dangerous to sand?
It can be if it contains lead. We treat pre-1980s coatings with caution and avoid dry sanding them.
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Next step
Ask for a trim and joinery quote that itemises the preparation, not just the topcoats.
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