Specification and comparisons

Repainting or replacing external timber cladding

A screwdriver testing the firmness of an exterior timber board at fixing height.

Failing paint on timber cladding does not automatically mean the boards themselves have failed. A large proportion of tired-looking cladding is sound underneath and simply needs proper stripping and a correctly specified system, but boards that are soft, split or rotten at the fixings need replacing rather than coating over.

Questions we are asked about this

How do I know if my cladding just needs a repaint?

Probe the timber at board ends, fixings and near ground level. If it resists firm pressure and the damage is only in the paint layer, a full strip and recoat is usually appropriate.

Does repainting cladding disturb the building's weatherproofing?

Generally not, since the boards themselves stay in place — this is one of the advantages of repainting over re-cladding where the timber is sound.

Can only some sections be replaced and the rest repainted?

Yes, this is common on larger elevations — failed boards can be replaced individually while sound sections either side are stripped and recoated.

Testing whether the timber is worth painting

A firm probe with a screwdriver at board ends, fixing points and ground level tells you quickly whether the timber is sound. Boards that resist the probe and only show surface greying or flaking paint are strong candidates for a full strip and recoat rather than replacement.

A newly primed section of exterior timber cladding contrasted against unpainted boards.

Signs that point towards re-cladding instead

Soft, spongy timber, boards that have cupped or twisted away from the frame, and repeated paint failure in the same spots despite previous repainting all suggest the timber itself, not just the coating, has reached the end of its life.

  • Soft or crumbling timber when probed
  • Repeated coating failure at the same locations
  • Boards visibly cupped, split or pulling from fixings

What a proper repaint of sound cladding involves

This is more than a wash and a topcoat. Failed paint needs stripping back to sound material, bare timber needs priming before the elements get to it again, and end grain and fixing points need particular attention since they are where moisture gets in first.

  • Full removal of failed and flaking coating, not just sanding over it
  • Priming of any exposed bare timber before recoating
  • Extra attention to end grain, joints and fixing points

Weighing the two routes honestly

Repainting sound cladding extends its life without disturbing the building's fixings or weatherproofing detail. Re-cladding resets the clock completely but disturbs more of the building envelope and is the right call only where the timber genuinely justifies it, not simply because painting feels like the smaller job.

How we work on this

  • We probe timber before recommending a repaint over replacement
  • We strip failed coating back to sound material rather than coating over it
  • We prime bare and exposed timber before the elements find it first

Send photographs of the worst-affected boards and we will tell you which sections need replacing and which just need recoating.

Sound timber deserves a proper repaint; failed timber deserves honest replacement, not paint over the top.

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