Repainting rusty railings, gates and metalwork
Rust does not stop under paint — it keeps working through the film wherever oxygen and moisture can reach it. On the South Coast, salt-laden air accelerates the whole process.
Preparation grade decides the lifespan
Wire brushing removes loose scale but leaves pitted corrosion behind. Mechanical abrasion or needle-gunning back to bright metal gives dramatically longer service, and it is the honest difference between a three-year and a ten-year job.
Primer selection
Zinc phosphate primers give good general protection on cleaned steel. Rust-converting primers have their place on tight residual corrosion where full removal isn't practical, but they are a compromise rather than a shortcut.
Direct-to-metal versus a full system
Single-pack direct-to-metal coatings are quick and tidy for railings and gates in sheltered positions. Exposed coastal metalwork benefits from a proper primer, intermediate and topcoat build.
Edges, welds and fixings
Coatings thin over sharp edges and weld lines, which is exactly where corrosion restarts. Those areas get a stripe coat by brush before the general application.
Common questions
Can you paint straight over rust?
Only over tightly adhered residual rust with a converting primer — loose scale and flaking corrosion must come off.
How long will repainted railings last near the sea?
It depends almost entirely on preparation standard and exposure, which is why we quote the prep explicitly.
Is Hammerite-type paint good enough?
It's serviceable for domestic gates in sheltered spots, but exposed metalwork does better on a layered primer and topcoat system.
Do you spray or brush metalwork?
Both — spraying gives an even film on complex sections, with brushed stripe coats on edges and welds.
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Next step
Send measurements and photos of the metalwork for a system-level quote.
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